I made the new rudder lines about 4-5 feet longer than the stock lines using 1/4 line. I attached a block to the rudder with about 12" of line. I think I may change it to 24 inches to keep the block out of the water.
The rudder line itself goes from the rudder, up through the boat, coming out the top deck, through the block on the stern seat, through the rudder block, up to the becket on the stern seat block. (I hope that makes sense)
I just lined up the v cleat inboard (near captain seat) of the factory cleat inline with the rudder line (from the seat block), so it can be dropped in easily. I put the kick up cleat outboard of the factory cleat, about 4 inches away, again, inline with the rudder line coming out of the deck
Once the boat was in the water, I put some rigging tape on the rudder line as a stopper to keep the rudder line from going into the water
I MAY put a fairlead on the rudder hole where it comes out of the deck, to keep the rope coming out of the deck from chafing. Where it only slides back into the deck, I don't think we need it...but will give it a more finished look. I just havent found a fairlead that is 'just right'.
To use is pretty simple. To lower the rudder - pull the line out of the deck, drop into the kickup cleat. To raise the rudder - Pull the line from the back of the boat (remember to remove it from the kick up cleat), drop in the v-cleat. You can secure it to the factory cleat if you like or keep it free for other use.
You can probably do this mod without the stern seats, but since the seats have a loop on them already, it makes it very easy to do.
You can use any brand blocks of course, but here was my shopping list -
2 Harken# 348 (what I used) OR 2 Harken 340
AND
2 harken# 341
2 ronstan v-cleat
1/4" line - 40 feet
2 rudder cleats from http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cl ... /index.htm (West marine has them too)
some pictures:
