<%@ Page Language="VB" ContentType="text/html" ResponseEncoding="iso-8859-1" %> Adventures of Puff Stuff – Bahamas 2006
 
 
Adventures of Puff Stuff – Bahamas 2006

Introductions

Hi! My name is Puff Stuff. I am a 13 year old MacGregor 26 classic. I live on a farm in New Jersey. My Captain is Sam Wykoff and his beautiful and charming wife Arlene is my first mate. My Mascot is an English Springer Spaniel named Bandit; he can be a real pain running back and forth over my deck all day and shedding on my cushions and I always have to set my hook where Bandit can go to shore. Life on the farm is very peaceful; the deer are nice, the bears scary and the spiders tickle when they make nests all over me.  Since my Captain retired 2 tears ago, I get to do a lot more traveling and sailing. I have an older sister, her name is Time Enough. She lives up North in Albany with Captain Bob Ahlers and Admiral Carol Mosley. We go on a lot of adventures together and this story is about our trip to the Bahaman Islands for the winter of 2006.

My Mascot on watch

Getting Ready

  I left NJ on January 3rd in a snow storm. You can’t believe how much stuff Captain loaded in me.  I got to Florida on Jan 6 and liked the warmer weather.  My Captain is not always too bright, he failed to call Everglades National Park to reserve a slip (that’s where I usually get off the bumpy trailer and float in the soft warm water. Turns-out the park and marina are closed due to hurricane damage. So I had to sit on the xxx trailer all the way back North to Vero Beach, our alternate launch site.  At least Captain called Bob so my sister avoided the 8 hour round trip to Everglades.  I finally got wet on Jan 7 and thought I was going to drown; I have so much stuff in me that I’m floating below my waterline and feel fat. I tied up in a nice slip at the Vero Beach Municipal Marina ($34/night); now this is living.  That night I had a terrible nightmare, it got so cold I thought I was back in NJ (32F).  As if I’m not wallowing low enough Captain proceeds to buy more supplies and load them below decks; wait until he hoists sails and expects me to romp through the waves. Next he puts water in my fresh water tanks to rinse them out, but I am unable to pump it up to the sink … something is dreadfully wrong with my plumbing! A quick inspection reveals two broken hose fittings. Captain cursed and came back from Home Depot with all new fittings and valves; I’m squirt’n good now.

I heard Captain say he stored the trailer at an RV dealer and it was $38/month and he’ll also put the truck there when we leave for the Bahamas. El’Cheapo decided I was getting spoiled in a slip, so after 3 days I moved to a mooring, now I get bumped by my pain in the stern dinghy 5 times a day. On the mooring I can use my BBQ; so on went some beef and out went my flame. I just could not seem to make enough gas; my fairly new BBQ regulator felt all congested. A trip to West Marine next day solved the problem with a free replacement regulator. It was really windy (20 +) at Vero and lets face it; dinks aren’t the brightest of boats. So what does my dink do while Captain’s in town and he is tied securely to the dinghy dock in a nice protected cove, he lets the wind get under his bow and flip him over backwards with his outboard on and all the gear inside. Fortunately, a Good Samaritan on the dock flipped him back over and rescued all the gear but his running light.  Captain was really upset when he returned and learned what little dink had done; he figured the motor was toast. Surprise! The motor started and ran, not well, but ran (does a dink motor ever run really well). Some alcohol in the gas and lots of WD40 seemed to help.

The Crossing

My sister really likes to tempt fate, she launched at Vero on Friday the 13th and took a slip; never even came out to my mooring to rub gunnels. My sister got ready to go pretty quickly and with a good forecast on Jan 19 we sailed south together in a brisk NE wind to Peck Lake and anchored right off a beautiful beach on a National Wildlife area. Bandit could run on the beach and walk 50 yards across the dunes to the ocean. I could hear the surf and smell the sea and my centerboard twitched with anticipation. On Jan 22nd we motored S on the ICW and set our hooks in the NE corner of Lake Worth. Our crews met up with Gail and Horst who are staying at their condo in W. Palm. They did lunch and then bought more supplies. That’s it, enough shopping; I moved down the ICW a few miles and anchored off a county park. The forecast offered a narrow window of SE winds at less than 8kn and seas 2 to 4 feet in the Gulf Stream, with a strong front to hit the Bahamas 30 hours later. My sister and I weighed anchors (hers is a 32# Bruce) and headed out to sea at 0715 on Jan 24. I was plowing into some big confused seas and set N with a strong current when I came out of the inlet at Lake Worth, but then it settled down to a nice motor sail all the way across the stream. The water was a beautiful blue and the sky partly cloudy. I have gone high-tech for the trip with an autopilot, the first mate seems to really like it, but I miss the feel of her soft warm hands on my tiller. It was so nice; Captain took a sun shower on the foredeck midstream.   I entered onto the Bahaman banks at 1600 just S of Memory Rock and a ways N of Settlement Pt. Since the weather was holding, I kept going direct for the NE corner of Great Sale Cay, we rounded it about midnight. The wind started picking up as we turned SE for Crab Cay. As daylight approached, the wind swung W and sis and I decided to skip Crab Cay, as it may be rough and go all the way to Green Turtle Cay, our port of entry. I had to back down the rpms on my engine, as the oil pressure light was indicating low oil levels and Captain was reluctant to hang off my stern ladder to add oil. Sis made arrangements for slips at Green Turtle Club and we tied up about1100 hours on Jan 25; 160 nautical miles in 28 hours for an average speed of 5.7kn. Our crews checked-in, had brunch, showered and rented a golf cart to go to New Plymouth to clear customs. Captain said the lady was friendly, the process simple and the cost $150. Sis and I snuggled up to the pilings quite pleased with our performances and ready for a rest.

Me at the slip in Green Turtle

Life in North Paradise

Sis and I usually do not spend many nights in marinas, but Green Turtle had a special deal our crews seemed to really like. I’m floating in five feet of crystal clear water - clear enough for Captain Bob to easily retrieve the solid silver spoon Admiral Carol dropped overboard.  First of all, the place is intimate and first class with a nice restaurant, bar and TV lounge. My slip costs $.95 per foot, water is 30 cents per gallon and power is $5 per day. HOWEVER, through Feb 28, your slip fees are credited against your bar and restaurant bill … definitely some happy campers staggering around on these docks.

Our crews drinking up our slip fees

Club at Green Turtle

 Speaking of staggering, my mascot is always screwing around and the other day he obviously forgot he was on the dock and jumped backwards into thin air at low tide – should have seen the look on his face as he went for a swim between me and the dock.

Well I’m getting antsy again, I’ve been tied up here for 5 days and it’s been blowing pretty hard, good thing we crossed the stream when we did. My radio says a front is coming through tonight, after that I should be able to move 20 miles south to Marsh Harbor. I want to get south as quick as possible to avoid these cold fronts. On Feb 1 we got a quiet forecast of 5 from the N and motored South via Don’t Rock Passage to Marsh Harbor, the 3rd largest town in the Bahamas. I’m anchored in the NE corner just off the Jib Room restaurant and Marsh Harbor Marina. They have a dink dock for shore access. My delta anchor failed to bite twice in the very soft bottom, so Captain switched to the Bruce and it held.  The crew and Bandit went for a walk on shore, some very nice homes, with bare lots starting at $500k. Marsh Harbor is the center of the Abaco VHF cruisers net at 0815 each morning with weather, news, public announcements and anyone seeking info. Feb 2 was town day and the crew took dink across the bay to the town and came back with fresh meat, vegetables and bread from 2 large grocery stores.

Thursday night was a private party for cruisers at the jib room; $2 drinks and everyone brings hors-d-oeuvres to share. Captain and mate had fun chatting with lots of other sailors. I wanted to get moving south, but the forecast for Feb 3 is 15kn on the nose, with a strong front due late Saturday and 25kn+, so Captain decided to stay here until Monday. The front came through as scheduled, with rain and wind the afternoon and night of Feb 4 with a shift NW on Feb 5 at 25kn. I bounced around a little, but Big Bruce held well. The crew is planning to attend the Super Bowl party at the Jib Room today, then move S Monday in lighter N winds. I think Captain will top-off my water tanks today and get ice for my cooler, as it will be awhile before we see another marina.

Time Enough in Marsh Harbor

Moving South

Monday, Feb 6 brought a sudden and decisive end to one of the longest naval battles. “The Purist” (Capt. Bob Ahlers) raised the flag of surrender and purchased a 3.5HP outboard for my sister’s dinghy. The victorious Admiral Moseley was seen puttering across the bay with that new found freedom only experienced with your first bike and first car. I heard some reports of flags being flown at half-mast in the harbor. With the new motor safely stored on the stern pulpit, Sis and I motor sailed out of marsh Harbor and some 20NM south to Little Harbor.  We anchored off the beach and the crews descended on Pete’s Pub for rum blasters and fresh fish dinners. After a quiet night, we made a 0630 departure for Royal Is. near Eleuthera, some 50NM to our south across open water. Again we motor sailed to maintain at least 5kn and arrive in daylight. Royal has a beautiful anchorage, which is almost totally enclosed.

Sis at Royal Island Anchorage

Taking advantage of the continuing fair weather, we left early the next morning to cross over to the Exumas, targeting Norman’s Cay for the next stop (50nm). We motor sailed again to cover the long distance in daylight. My motor is running fine and shows no further signs of leaking oil. About 11nm from our destination Sis called on the radio and said her rudder post had sheared off. I went back to her. She had anchored in 15 feet of water with a 2 foot swell/waves. She really looked sad as Capt. Bob pulled her rudder aboard and took the sails down. We agreed to go to the nearest anchorage, Allan’s Cay. I offered to tow her, but Capt. Bob decided he could steer with the outboard. Four long miles later we were anchored in 5 feet over a sand bottom, but a little exposed to the swell.  From past experience, Sis and I both carry spare rudder brackets. I also have a spare rudder, tiller and support bracket. The later of which Sis needed, as hers was bent. Once our Captains got the parts dug out and Sis’ rear locker emptied, the replacement was completed in 30 minutes. It was getting dark and the wind was picking up, so we hunkered down for a somewhat lumpy night. The next day my crew went for a swim and got cleaned up before going to Highborn Cay for fuel and ice. We then moved S to the north harbor on Norman’s Cay and set my hook in a beautiful protected anchorage with a nice little beach for Bandit. Sis invited my crew over for dinner and we all had a quiet night.

Ill Winds

My Captain awoke with a fever and bad throat and my Admiral’s back is really bothering her. However, with a strong cold front expected in 2 days, the decision was made to move south and hold-up in Pipe Cay. We made the 30 nm beat without incident and were able to sail a large part of the way. Pipe Cay is my favorite anchorage, as I sit in a narrow channel between 2 large sand flats that are dry at low tide. Around noon the next day (Feb 11) showers started in advance of the front. Next came the winds at 30kn NW with gusts reported at 50kn. My Admirals back is really bad, can’t walk. My Captain appears to have a flu bug.  It is so windy, the dink can not be rowed and is very difficult to control with the motor to take Bandit to shore. The dink flipped over twice tied to my stern without the motor on. Captain set a third anchor to keep us off the sand bar and as insurance if one drags. Its blowing so hard on Feb 12, that Bandit goes to shore by tying a 150 foot line on the dink; Capt. then drifts back to shore and pulls the dink back to me; a wet ride. Feb 13 we repeat the process as the winds show no sign of dropping or shifting. Other than all the dinghy work, it is a good chance for the crew to rest and regain their health. Sis reported hearing on the SSB that two sail boats were lost on reefs a ways south of us.  One catamaran got in trouble, punctured a hull and was abandoned; the crew made it to shore. Rescuers could not reach that side of the island. Their buddy boat tried to go around the island and pick them up on the other side. Apparently they began taking on water and could not pump fast enough, so they abandoned the boat to the reef and took their dinghy to shore.

Mirror Mirror on the Wall,  Who’s the Best Dressed of Them All

On Feb 14 the wind let up and Sis led the way on an exciting inside passage over some thin water to get us to Staniel Cay YC where we took slips.  Captain is getting over the flu, but Admiral’s back is really bad and she can’t walk far. Our crews attended the big Valentines Day dinner party at the club. The club did an excellent job of decorating and preparing a great meal. Then they surprised the guests by announcing they had selected the sexiest mate and the best dressed captain … and my Captain won. He was not sure who the mate was, but he did not challenge her ample qualifications.  

Our Crews at Valentine’s Dinner

My Captain with the Sexiest Mate and Prizes

Bread

On Feb 15, we made a not too early start south to Black Point (Sis’s crew stayed late at the party and we understand my crew missed some “live entertainment”).  It was a good beat in 18kn. Black Point is best known for three things: 1 free RO water, 2 a modern Laundromat and 3 Lorraine’s Mother’s bread. The day before, Captain ordered a loaf each of home baked white, raisin and coconut. The town is fairly poor and our crews brought supplies for the school and Sunday school, as had many others. The wind was up again, so we stayed 2 nights and enjoyed the fresh bread.

Black Point Town Dock

View from Anchor at Black Point

Tracks in the Sand

Typically when sailing the Exumas, you have a choice of going “outside” in the Sound or “inside” over the banks. On Feb 17 we had NE winds 10-15kn, but there was still a lot of chop on the sound, so we had a great sail down the inside … except for the banks between Rudder Cut Cay and Bock Cay. In this area there are few land marks, numerous sand bars, a few small reefs and just enough water to make it look pretty. With Sis in the lead, we bobbed and weaved around most of the obstacles, but left rudder and centerboard tracks across several 2 foot plus spots. We arrived at William’s Bay on Lee Stocking Cay at 1630 and low tide. This is one of my favorite anchorages, with a nice sand bottom and beautiful beach. Sis and I are the only ones here. Bandit loves running on the deserted beach. The wind is up again, so we decide on a day of R&R.

My Crew is a Real Dog

Put’n on the Ritz

My Sister’s Admiral heard all kinds of good things about a newly-opened high-end marina attached to a Four Seasons Resort, so on Fed 19 we motor sailed to Rat Cay and proceeded out the cut to Exuma Sound.  We then had a nice beat SE to the narrow, but well-marked (once close enough to see it) entrance to The Marina at Emerald Bay. Much of the marina and associated condos are still under construction. Individual lots are available at $1M. The marina basin was created by 3 years of excavating solid rock. Sis and I were put on floating concrete docks, each complete with its own water, electric, sewer and phone connections. Once my dock lines were secured, an embossed welcome mat was placed on the dock next to my cockpit. The restrooms and showers were complete with silver and china dispensers of soap, body lotion, shampoo and mouth wash. The Laundromat was temporary and free, but only had one washer and one dryer. The Admirals took turns in a 7 hour laundry marathon. Ice also was free; and my cooler was replenished.  The staff was extremely courteous and helpful. To say Sis and I were the smallest boats there is an extreme understatement. Most of the boats were professionally crewed motor yachts in the 100 foot plus range, the one docked near me said she burns 175 gallons of diesel per hour.

My Admiral was in a lot of pain with her back and she learned that there was a doctor in town. Monday morning the marina dock master called the doctor at home and arranged for the Admiral to be seen at his house at 0800. he also arranged a taxi to get her there. By 0830 Admiral had a shot of anti-inflammatory med in her butt, some pain pills and some anti-inflammatory ointment. All of this for no charge, since the Admiral is a fellow health professional. So, Captain made the Doctor take a donation for the community. Try and get that kind of service in the USA!

While my crew was doing the medical thing, Sis’ crew was of checking out the resort, spa and town. They were getting the royal treatment, until they mentioned they were cruisers. If anyone is interested, rooms are available at the spa for $900 per night. By 11:30 Sis and I had our crews back on board and we shoved off for Georgetown.

Arrival at Club Med for the Cruising Afflicted

I motor sailed the 9 miles to Elizabeth Harbor into a 14kn SE wind. I slipped past several larger boats that thought they had the beach front position and dropped the hook in 3 feet MLW. Captain put out a second anchor in a Bahamian Moore configuration as the anchorage was very crowded. Sis slipped in next to me and also set 2 anchors. We got some welcome backs from folks we met last year and some exclamations from others about how little water we must draw. Bandit was happy to have the beach 100 feet away. Captain says I’ll be here for the next 3 weeks, that’s when the regatta week celebration ends. Our captains played some volleyball on the beach each afternoon and Sis’ captain’s team won the volleyball bragging rights competition. On Feb 22, Chris Parker, the SSB weather guru for the Bahamas and Caribbean gave a free seminar in Georgetown. That evening Eileen Quinn, a professional singer and song writer who specializes in songs about cruising, gave a free concert on volleyball beach. She has 5 CDs out and her music can be heard at www.eileenquinn.com. If you sail, you will love it.

Bandit is Happiest Riding the Dink

Regatta Week at Georgetown

Elizabeth Harbor is about 2 miles wide and several miles long. It has numerous protected anchoring areas with lots of beaches. I am anchored off “volleyball beach”, where the Chat’n Chill bar is located. This is where a lot of the social action takes place: volleyball, dances, art club, chess, bridge, bocce, scuba club, yoga, bible studies, etc. With nearly 400 boats in the harbor there are lots of folks organizing activities and offering help. This is all tied together and coordinated via a VHF cruisers net each morning at 0810. Regatta week will be March 2 – 11 and it consists of numerous contests held throughout the harbor: beach golf, softball, tennis, volleyball, dink races, yacht races, pet parade, dance, conch blowing, coconut gathering, flip flop decorating, bridge, etc. The town of Georgetown is about 1.2nm across the harbor from my anchorage. This is where the crew goes for supplies, ice and water. It can be a wet and wild dinghy ride.

Sis All Gussied Up for Regatta, with Points All Her Own Sitting Way Up High

Sis’ Captain participated in the dinghy sailing and rowing races. He made a good showing with an excellent start, but had difficulties beating on the final sailing leg and got fouled with another boat when rowing round a mark. His team did win the “Bragging Rights” volley ball tournament.

Sis’ Captain Ready at the Volley Ball Net

Captain and the Admiral took me in the “Round the Harbor Race”, which consisted of twice around a 5 mile triangular course using PHRF handicaps. I had an excellent start, being first over the line and did well going to windward on the first leg. Unfortunately, on the 2 reaching legs all the other boats had huge genoas and I was not allowed to use my spinnaker. I regained ground on the second lap of the windward leg, passing a few larger boats, only to loose it again on the reaches. I finished near the middle of my fleet.

My captain and Sis’ entered the coconut race with a Canadian couple sailing on Jock’s Lodge. We all agreed this was the most fun of the whole regatta week. Each team earned points in a series of events, most points wins. For the first event, 1000 coconuts were dumped upwind in the small bay where I’m anchored. Each team of four had a dinghy, one flipper each and a bucket. Launching from the beach each team was to collect as many coconuts as possible, using the flippers to move the dinghy and the bucket to swamp the competition. There were 20 teams and my Captain’s team collected 75 coconuts. The next event was coconut basketball on the beach. Each team lined up 15 feet from a milk crate and had 1 coconut. Taking turns over a 5 minute period, each member threw the coconut for the basket, ran up and brought it back for the next member to throw. Captain Bob was very good at this and scored many baskets. The third event required the team to build a pyramid from coconuts and sand in 5 minutes. They earned 1 point for each inch of height; our team’s was 43 inches high. Next was coconut bocce, with 5 teams of 4 each throwing a coconut in succession. With 19 coconuts scattered around the target ball, two other teams were within a few inches of the target ball, BUT Captain Bob had the last coconut to be tossed and he landed it right next to the target ball earning 25 points for our team. The final event was coconut bowling, the pin being a beer bottle, of course.  The teams lined up about 20 feet from their beer with 1 coconut. Like basketball, you bowled for the pin, then ran and retrieved the coconut, set the pin back up if you hit it and got the coconut back to your team. Each team had 5 minutes. Involve beer and my captain performs better, he was right on and scored a hit with most of his throws. Overall our team earned 265 points; the winning team had 425, and everyone had a great time.

Captain’s Team Center Upper Third of Photo

Our Team in Foreground Fighting for the Last Coconuts

Captain Bob Making the Winning Bocce Toss

Captain Sam Bowling Down the Beer Bottles

Our Coconut Race Team Tired but Happy

The final event of the week was a variety show held in town at a park. It consisted of nearly 4 hours of great acts put on by the cruisers and town people. It is truly amazing how much talent there is hiding out there. Sis’ Captain and Admiral played fiddle and guitar and the audience moving and grooving.

Mov’n On

With Regatta week over and having spent nearly 3 weeks in Elizabeth Harbor, Captain took me to the Marina for water, fuel and supplies. After a “swell” night on the dock, I’m anchored in a well protected and serene bay further south in the harbor. As soon as the weather breaks (blowing 18-20), Sis and I plan to head E to Long Island where our Captains hope to spear some fish. I really don’t like to discuss personal hygiene, but after sitting for 3 weeks my bottom is pretty fouled. Captain had to spend a good hour plus scrubbing all kinds of marine life off my bottom; no wonder I was so slow. On March 14 Sis and I had a nice 25NM sail on a close reach to Long Island. We tucked into a creek at Joe’s Sound and had a very smooth anchorage between large sand flats, which Bandit enjoyed running on at low tide. The entrance was only about 20 feet wide between coral rocks. The Captains did some spear fishing the next day and Capt. Sam got a small grouper for lunch. The Crews had an excellent Italian dinner on Sis prepared by Admiral Carol.

The sand Flats at Joe’s Sound at Low Tide

Time Enough Anchored Joe’s Sound at High Tide

A day on Shore

On March 16, Sis and I beat 20NM S in 15kn to Thompson Bay on Long Island. The wind was blowing pretty good early in the day and Sis tore the tack out of her working jib, so she motor sailed most of the way. Captain Bob did a good repair by hand after borrowing a sewing awl. Thompson Bay was well protected and had 38 boats, all bigger than me, of course. On St Patrick’s Day, most of the cruisers gathered at the Thompson bay Inn for a family style dinner, Irish music by Sis’ crew and then Karaoke. A good time was had by all. The next day our crews rented a car and toured the island. They stopped at a local farmer for fresh vegetables and he played and sang a song he was writing. Lunch of fresh grouper was taken at a posh marina on the E shore in Clarence Town. The captains climbed the twin bell towers of the town church and had a great view of the town and harbor.

Captain Bob in Church Bell Tower for View of Harbor

The Admirals at base of Bell Towers

View of Clarence Town and Atlantic Beyond from Bell Tower

Rapture of the Deep or Mutants?

Next was a visit to the very impressive blue hole. The hole’s depth is unknown, but exceeds 600 feet. Both crews snorkled the hole. My Captain saw two strange fish with a body shaped like a penguin’s, large blue eyes and a movable snout shaped like an ant eaters, which they waved up and down at him. No one else saw them and they could not be found in our reference books. Was it rapture of the deep at 15 feet or mutants? Everyone agreed the blue hole was some of the best snorkeling they ever had. After that, everyone needed an ice cream fix. They then drove to the north tip of the island and climbed up to the Columbus monument for a great view and fantastic sunset. They were rewarded with finally seeing the green flash; and unlike the fish, this was confirmed by all four of our crews. The trip was completed with rum drinks and a light supper at the Cape Santa Maria resort. They finally got back on board me about 2100 and took poor bandit to shore; I was getting worried he might soil my decks or worse. On March 19, Sis and I motor sailed back to Georgetown in light air. The next day our crews did laundry and re-supplied.

Blue Hole on Long Island

Admiral Carol and Captain Bob at the Blue Hole

 

The Columbus Monument on N Tip of Long Island

Admiral Arlene Awaits the Green Flash from N Tip of Long Island

Weathered-in at Paradise

Admiral Arlene’s back is still limiting her activities and mobility, so she has decided we should begin heading home for treatment. Unfortunately, Mother Nature thinks we should suffer the sun, beach, rum and parties in George Town for several more days, as she serves-up 18-20kn from the north. A cold front is due to pass through George Town tonight (March 24) followed by several days of strong N winds. Once it eases to the NE I will start working north up the Exumas. Yesterday, Captain took me out to a beautiful reef, where I anchored in 30 feet of crystal clear water over white sand. Captain went spear fishing and missed a nice grouper, but saw lots of interesting fish. Admiral even snorkeled a little. As punishment for failing to secure a fish for dinner, the crew was forced to subsist on rum punches and munchies shared on Puff Stuff with Bob and Bobbie from Calisto. She was the 33 foot steel hulled cutter I shared a mooring with in Vero Beach Florida. The crews had fun catching up on their adventures since leaving Florida.

Pam and Bruce Forshay (former MOANE members and prior owners of Charis, a 26 foot Hunter on Lake Champlain) Arrived in George Town to spend a week with friends on Island Time. You can tell the guests from up north by their lily-white skin. Our Captains quickly introduced them to beach volleyball and celebrated with a few beers. From 450 boats in the harbor 2 weeks ago, the number has dropped to less than 200 and it is getting hard to find enough volleyball players. A lot of boats are continuing south to the Caribbean or S. America and many are returning to the USA.

The never ending cycle of gear failures and repairs continues. Sis’ dinghy developed a crack in her transom from the outboard added in Marsh Harbor. With help and parts from Island Time, Captain Bob was able to reinforce it. The rectifier in the charging circuit of my outboard was not putting out a full charge and my Captain appears to have shorted it out in the process of diagnosing the problem. This means we run the Honda generator more frequently to charge the battery.

An Uphill Ride North

On March 25 Captain pulled my Bruce from the Georgetown sand for the last time this year and Sis and I began our long trek back to the USA. In strong NE winds we beat north 35 miles to a well protected anchorage off a small beach at Galliot Cut. This was a true MacGregor beach as we anchored stern-to and had the entire beach to ourselves. After Sis’s catastrophic rudder stock failure, Captain was concerned about mine. He took the opportunity of being near the beach to pull it off for inspection. It showed some wear and the possible start of a crack, so he replaced it with the spare. The next day I continued beating north in strong winds and anchored in Black Point, only making 13NM and being glad to get out of the rough seas. On March 27 I beat straight to Sampson Cay going out over the banks, while Sis went via Staniel Cay, as Admiral Carol needed to stop in a Batelco office re her cell phone. I filled my fuel and water tanks at the very posh Sampson Cay Club and then anchored in the well protected harbor near it. Sis joined us later in the day. With heavy winds forecast, the crews spent the next day exploring the sand flats around Sampson and enjoying lunch, drinks and ICE CREAM at the club. An 8 passenger sea plane had crashed 3 weeks before on the hillside 100 yards from where I am anchored, everyone survived, but I would not have if I were anchored here. My crew explored the wreck, which was in reasonable shape. On March 29 I beat north 25 NM to a small creek on the south end of Shroud Cay. 25kn winds were forecast for overnight, so Sis and I tucked in tight. The next day our crews explored the creeks and sand flats that form the inside of the cay. They went all the way across to a small cut and beautiful beach on the Sound side. On March 31 Sis and I got an early start for the 40 NM jump to Nassau. The crews considered spending a night at the Atlantis Marina ($6/ft all inclusive) and touring the resort, but it was booked through April. So, the Captains selected an anchorage on near-by Rose Island. It was a good sail across in moderate swells off the beam. We got in about an hour before sunset and had a peaceful night.

Sampson Cay Club from my Anchorage  

Sis at Anchor in the Creek on Shroud Cay

Be Careful What You Ask For

On April 1, it was off early again for a 40NM jump to Little Harbor in the Berry Islands. The wind was lighter at 10-12 kn and broader. The last 20 miles, Sis and I ran spinnakers in order to make enough speed to arrive in daylight. The wind was right on the beam and carrying the chute was tough at times, but we did it. When asked what she wanted for lunch underway, Admiral Arlene said a ceasar salad w grilled fish; of which I had neither in my cooler. A little while later Sis’ Admiral radioed the Captain Bob was trolling and had just brought a 2 foot plus Mahi-Mahi in next to the boat, but the leader broke when he tried to bring it on-board. This motivated Captain Sam to troll a lure. As we approached the Berrys, the wind shifted and dropped, making us drop the spinnaker and motor sail. A little while later the line started singing off Captains reel at an alarming rate. The drag was quickly tightened the motor was put in neutral and main dropped. By then at least 100 yards of line were run out by the yet unknown fish. With the drag sufficiently tight the fish cleared the water some 150 yards astern and my crew simultaneously said holly s***!. Unable to make much progress regaining line, Captain ordered reverse. After considerable cranking on the reel the fish jumped clear of the water again and appeared long and shiny and was thought to be a large barracuda. More reeling brought it leaping clear of the water at 50 yards where it was identified as a Mahi-Mahi. This really got the adrenalin flowing. As the big fish was reeled closer, he circled me and Captain had to go all the way around my deck, which was rolling in 2 foot swells, passing the rod outside everything. The line fouled on by running light, but Captain got it free. The fish then made another run taking about 25 yards of line. Now reeled close to the boat, it decided to go under the boat and try and wrap around the center board. Captain worked him to the surface hoping to gaff him with the boat hook. One good look at the thrashing fish shot that idea down. Captain reached down and grabbed the 2 foot wire leader pulled the head up grabbed a gill and man-handled it over the side of the boat and into the cockpit. All through the battle Bandit was barking and continued as this creature of the deep flopped in my cockpit. Captain quickly grabbed the bottle of vodka and poured liberal amounts in each gill, which quickly dispatched the magnificent creature. Obviously it was fish for dinner! Captain squared away the boat and gear and motored into a beautiful anchorage at Little Harbor. Once organized at anchor, Captain measured (50 inches) and filleted the fish. Sis’s crew delivered some to a local fishing from the dock, who was very appreciative. The crews decided the fish would keep best if we cooked it all, so Captain fired-up my grill. Sis’ crew joined us for a fish dinner and took enough back for a few meals. Being a lady, I was not very happy about my cockpit smelling fishy, so Captain did a thorough cleaning. This attracted numerous fish including a shark, yellow tailed snapper and a ray.

50 inch Mahi- Mahi in my Cockpit

My Captain and his Catch

The Settlement at Little Harbor Anchorage

The Berrys and Back to Civilization

On April 2, after a leisurely breakfast we left Little Harbor and motor sailed in very light air to Great Harbor on the north end of the Berrys. This will be our jumping off point for the 65NM crossing to the Freeport area on Gand Bahama Island. The Admiral instructed the Captain that he was not to put a hook in the water. About 5 miles out from our destination, we heard a VHF call for help from a 44 foot sail boat with 6 foot draft aground in the anchorage. We motored past the grounded boat and anchored. Several dinghies were trying to push her off. The dinks gave up and Captain went over. They were a younger couple with a 3 year old child. They left Virginia in January and had keel and engine problems on the way down. This was a celebration trip, as the captain had just completed 2 years of chemo therapy. Captain guided them on setting an anchor at 90 degrees to the boat and attaching it to the main halyard. This allowed them to heel the boat way over, however, the tide had dropped so far by then that the keel remained stuck. Around midnight the water returned and Sis’ Captain went over and helped them when they wrapped a line around their prop motoring off. Next morning we found them safely anchored in deep water, as we left at 0600 on a 65 mile hop to Grand Bahama.

We had a good motor sail to Xanadu Marina on Grand Bahama Island just east of Freeport. The marina had a lot of hurricane damage and was being renovated. Sis and I were the only two boats staying there. Refueled and rested, on April 5 we departed for Vero Beach Florida, some 120NM northwest. The wind and waves were on the nose for the first 6 hours with a large swell and almost made us duck into West End. However, as forecast the wind went east and eased around 1400 hours and we had a good motor sail the rest of the way. Around 0300 I lost sight of Sis, having last seen her considerably to the west and ahead of me. I arrived at the Ft. Pierce inlet just at sunrise and proceeded to motor up the ICW to Vero. Sis’ captain contacted us on the VHF when we hailed for a bridge opening and said he had dozed off and the autopilot took him too far west. He was about 30 minutes behind us. By noon, Sis and I were in slips at the Vero Beach Marina and our crews had taken hot showers. Admiral Carol arranged for a cab (which turned out to be a stretch limo) to take the crews to retrieve the trucks and trailers. The crews then went to the county airport to clear customs. That night the crews celebrated completing the trip with dinner out. On April 7, Captain unrigged me, loaded me on the trailer and headed north. Sis would leave the next day. By April 9, I was parked back on the farm; I can’t wait to tell my friends the deer and other animals about by adventure.


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